For mere mortals like me though, it's a shop trip no two ways about it.
Fox float rp23 air sleeve service how to#
So, if you know how to service a damper that uses nitrogen and can get the parts, then it's user serviceable. boost valve seals or o-rings or something (can't remember) Some other things to consider for all shock models: If you ride in extreme conditions, service your shock and air sleeve more frequently. If this residual air sleeve lubricant is not present, this is an indication that the air sleeve should be re-lubricated. Repair from Fox only apparently that included: There may be a small amount of air sleeve lubricant residue on the body. you may also feel a slight knock when you stop (related to above symptom). Shock moves through that first few millimeters quickly, way too quickly. Once the oil is really well mixed with air, the shock will make a very quiet 'squish' noise when moving through the very first few millimeters of travel (that's the damper air/oil moving past the seal and mixing with the damper oil/air.) Once it fails, damping gets progressively worse. The issue is with the device that keeps the damper air(nitrogen) and damper oil separate. Including seals, 5ml shock oil float fluid, q-rings and o-rings. Fox service kit for Float Line air sprung shocks from model 2000. Apparently it is a known fault - the fault isn't that common but it happens in the same way each time.Īpologies in advance for the description - I didn't really understand anything I was told!: FOX Rebuild Kit for FLOAT Line Rear Shocks - 803-00-142. The mechanic at the MTB park had a look, thought he recognized the issue and called Fox to confirm. I had a similar issue with my RP23 from a Specialized Enduro while on holiday in New Zealand. Are there any brands of shock oil that are known to be significantly more thermally stable? I'd think not, or wouldn't Fox use it? Fox has done a great job of being tight lipped on this, but was hoping someone here. Changes to oil weight will affect the feel of the shock at all temperatures and the damping will still get lighter as it heats up. I know air sleeve service is a no brainer, but I need to find some info on servicing the oil/nitrogen chamber. Basically, if you want a shock that is consistent on long descents you need a coilover with piggyback (lots of oil to absorb heat & lots of surface area to lose it).Īny changes you make to the pressure will only affect the progressiveness/overall spring rate. I think that you'd still feel the compression damping fade and the air spring get stiffer from heat. Rockshox's thermally sensitive, expanding rebound needle is a novel solution and my friend who's testing it says it works great on long DH runs. I think Push's staged rebound cures this some but it will still get faster when the shock heats up. I feel this on my Mojo but it's the price you pay to descend hard on a lightweight shock. Small oil volume surrounded by an insulating air can is the issue. Since heat/fading/oil thinning is the problem I don't see any solution.